Pumpkin soy-kefir soup

Kabocha’s sweet, starchy flesh blends with soy milk into a thick, velvety soup, and soy kefir adds a gentle tang. Pumpkin potage belongs to yoshoku, Japan’s Western-style cooking, and is a modern favourite with toast at breakfast. The soup needs no cream, and shio-koji gives it a rounded, savoury depth.

Prep time10 min
Total time30 min
Makes4 servings
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Pumpkin soy-kefir soup

A breakfast soup, hot or cold

In Japan, a thick pumpkin potage is often eaten with toast in the morning, and a bagel works just as well. It is not only a winter dish: a soy-milk version is just as good served cold on a summer morning. Fresh or frozen kabocha both work. If the soup is too thick, a little water loosens it, and without a blender you can mash cooked pumpkin and stir it smooth by hand.

Stop the soy milk short of a boil

Soy milk on its own only forms a skin when it boils, but heat together with salt and acid makes its protein clump, much as nigari sets soy milk into tofu. This soup carries both, in the shio-koji and the kefir, so a hard boil can turn it grainy. Unsweetened soy milk with a high soy content separates more easily than lighter soy milk. That is why the soup is warmed over low heat and taken off just before it boils.

What shio-koji brings

Shio-koji is a seasoning made from rice koji and salt, and it gives the soup sweetness and savoury depth rather than plain saltiness. Heat stops shio-koji from tenderising meat or fish, but its sweetness and savoury flavour stay in a hot soup. If you have no shio-koji, a little salt can season the soup instead.

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