Sweet pea and asparagus kefir soup

This is a spring soup in a bowl: sweet peas and green asparagus blended with cauliflower into a smooth, bright green purée. Kefir goes in at the end, off the heat, and gives the soup a light creaminess and a fresh tang against the sweet peas. Serve it with a slice of toasted sourdough for a light lunch.

Prep time15 min
Total time45 min
Makes6 servings
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Sweet pea and asparagus kefir soup

Why the kefir waits until the pot is off the heat

Cultured milk curdles when a soup gets too hot. Strong heat makes its proteins clump, and the soup turns grainy with small white flecks. Whole-milk yogurt, with about 4% fat, curdles quickly even at a bare simmer, while much richer crème fraîche stays creamy. Kefir is acidic, which makes its proteins even more likely to clump, so let the blended soup cool slightly and stir the kefir in with the pan off the heat. Whole-milk kefir holds up better than low-fat kefir.

Bright green and smooth without cream

Green vegetables keep their colour when the cooking is brief. Long cooking fades their chlorophyll from bright green toward a dull olive or yellow, and acid speeds the change, which is one more reason to add the tangy kefir only after cooking. Frozen peas are as good as fresh here, and often better.

Cooked cauliflower turns very soft, so it blends to a smooth, creamy base without any cream. The woody base of the asparagus is the most common cause of a stringy soup, so trim it well before weighing. For an especially fine texture, press the blended soup through a fine sieve to catch the fibres the stick blender misses.

Hot or chilled, with something to dip

Pea-and-asparagus soup is often served as a light spring lunch or starter, and it can be served warm or cold. Toasted sourdough and a little chopped cilantro suit it well. Keep a few whole peas back for texture and finish each bowl with mint and black pepper, or top it with a poached egg and herbs, or serve it beside toasts spread with goat's cheese.

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