Meat turnovers with kefir dough

Bite through the blistered crust of a cheburek and you reach a thin layer of peppery meat and onion. These fried half-moon turnovers are a national dish of Crimean Tatar cooking and a popular street food from the Caucasus to the Baltics. Milk kefir makes the dough soft and easy to roll, and a spoonful goes into the filling too.

Prep time30 min
Total time1 h 20 min
Makes12 pieces
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Meat turnovers with kefir dough

Five to a plate, with a cold drink

Crimean Tatar settlers brought the turnovers to Eskişehir in Turkey, where they come hot on oval plates, five to a portion, and are eaten by hand. The dough there is just flour, water and salt, the filling minced meat and onion, and the drink a glass of cold, frothy ayran. Elsewhere chebureki are traditionally eaten with kefir or another fermented milk drink. In 2022 Ukraine added the Crimean Tatar way of preparing them to its national list of intangible cultural heritage.

What kefir changes in the dough

Kefir dough is a home-kitchen variation, softer and easier to handle than vodka or boiling-water doughs, with a crust that is a little less glassy. It blisters on the outside and forms thin layers inside. Resting relaxes the gluten, and dough that is under-kneaded or not rested tends to tear when rolled thin. Too much flour has the opposite problem and makes the fried pastry tough, so stop adding it while the dough still feels soft.

Blisters, grease and a crisp crust

Blisters are the sign that oil and dough are right. A crust without them usually means the oil is not hot enough or the dough is too thick, and a greasy crust points to cool oil or a damp dough surface. The filling needs some moisture to stay juicy, so stir it again before portioning, because liquid collects at the bottom of the bowl. Fried turnovers should rest in a single layer, since steam trapped between stacked pieces softens the crust. Serve them with pickles, sour cream and a sharp salad, or with a garlicky herb kefir sauce.

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