Kefir crescent rolls

Kiflice are small, soft crescent rolls, popular in home kitchens across Bosnia, Croatia and Serbia, golden outside and tender as bread within. Here milk kefir moistens the dough, a swap that makes the rolls especially soft.

Prep time30 min
Total time2 h 25 min
Makes32 pieces
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Kefir crescent rolls

The crescent roll that came before the croissant

The crescent roll, called kipferl in Austria and kifla in the Balkans, is common across Central Europe, and Vienna recorded it as early as 1227. It was probably a monastery roll baked for Easter; the popular tale of its invention during an Ottoman siege may be wrong. The kipferl likely inspired the croissant, but it stays plain and bread-like rather than flaky. In Serbia, kiflice made with spelt flour, sheep's cheese and sesame are baked for Christmas on 7 January.

Why kefir goes into the dough

Milk and yogurt are the usual liquids in kiflice dough, and they keep it moist and pillowy. Kefir does the same job and many home bakers in the Balkans now prefer it: the rolls come out very soft and rise well, while yogurt gives a slightly denser roll. Dry kiflice are usually overbaked ones, which is why their colour, not the clock, decides when they come out. A short spell in a hot oven brings back the softness of a day-old roll.

Plain, savoury or sweet

Unfilled kiflice can stand in for bread beside a main dish, or go with coffee or tea as a snack. Serve them at breakfast or supper with yogurt or a glass of kefir or set them out for guests with beer and small savoury plates. For a savoury filling, use a firm or smoked cheese, feta mixed with egg, ham or mushrooms, then scatter sesame, caraway or coarse salt on top. Sweet versions take thick plum or apricot jam, hazelnut spread, ground walnuts with sugar, or chocolate. To fill them, put about a teaspoon of filling on the wide end of each wedge before rolling; overstuffed rolls leak in the oven.

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