Potatoes baked in kefir

Thin potato slices baked in milk kefir with onion, garlic and plenty of dill come out tender, tangy and fragrant, with little milk curds tucked between the layers. It is a simple Russian home bake, quick enough to make when friends turn up unexpectedly. Kefir takes the place of a cream sauce and brings its own rich, tangy flavour.

Prep time20 min
Total time1 h
Makes3 servings
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Potatoes baked in kefir

The curds are part of the dish

In a cream gratin, curdling counts as a fault, but here the small milk flakes are expected and give the dish its character. Kefir is sour enough that its milk protein clumps when it is heated, so the bake separates into soft curds and a tangy whey that pools around the potatoes. Full-fat kefir gives softer, creamier curds than a low-fat one. Spoon the juices from the dish back over the potatoes when you serve them.

Why the slices are so thin

The usual complaint about potatoes baked in sour dairy is that they stay hard. Acid slows the softening of potato cells, so they need longer than in a cream sauce, although they do soften in the end. That is why the slices are only 3 mm thick and the onion is chopped finely, so both are tender at the same time. A shallow dish matters too: in a deep one the top turns golden while the middle stays raw. Ovens vary, so trust the knife test more than the clock.

Sausages, pickles and a cheesy version

In Russia the bake is served at the main meal with sausages and a fresh vegetable salad, and pickles and bread suit it as well. For a cheese version, scatter grated hard cheese over the top. Another variation fries the onion first and mixes it with grated cheese through the potato slices, with more cheese added near the end. In Taiwan, fresh locally grown dill is sold in small packs, and the waxy Tainung No. 1 potato is the one recommended for baked gratins.

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