Okroshka (Kefir Summer Soup)

Okroshka takes its name from a Russian verb meaning to chop finely, and every spoonful shows why: small cubes of potato, egg, ham, cucumber and crisp red radish, flecked with dill and scallion. Russians make it in summer, when new-season cucumbers, radishes and herbs are at their best. Milk kefir turns the cold broth creamy, pale and gently sour.

Prep time30 min
Total time2 h 10 min
Makes4 servings
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Okroshka (Kefir Summer Soup)

Kvass or kefir, the great summer argument

The older base for the soup is kvass, a fermented rye drink with a pronounced bread-like tang. Kefir took its place in Soviet times and gives a milder, creamier soup. The choice still splits Russians almost evenly into a kvass camp and a kefir camp. Either way, okroshka belongs to picnics and to the dacha, the family's summer country house, where it is ladled into clay or enamel bowls.

Why the kefir meets sparkling water

Salt and the juice from cut vegetables tend to thicken kefir, so Russian cooks loosen it with cold sparkling water. Equal parts make a classic thin broth, while two parts kefir to one part water give a thicker, creamier soup. The light fizz also recalls the sparkle of a kvass base. Every ingredient must be cold before it meets the kefir, because warm potato can make it curdle. Cold also dulls flavour, so taste the chilled soup before you decide on more salt.

Garlic-rubbed black bread and dill ice cubes

Okroshka comes to the table cold as a light meal. Serve it with black bread whose crust has been rubbed with a freshly cut garlic clove. Some Russian cooks add two or three ice cubes to each bowl, each one frozen around a dill leaf, with horseradish and egg yolk mashed with mustard on the side. Boiled chicken or beef can replace the ham, but fried meat does not belong in the bowl. For a meatless bowl, keep just the potato and egg.

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