Poltava kefir dumplings

Halushky are tender, fluffy pieces of dough from Poltava in central Ukraine, a city that treats them as its signature dish. This unfilled version is boiled in salted water and tossed in butter while still hot. Milk kefir is what makes them light: its acidity reacts with a little baking soda and puffs the dough as it cooks.

Prep time5 min
Total time35 min
Makes4 servings
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Poltava kefir dumplings

The dumpling with its own monument

Halushky are eaten across Ukraine, but Poltava claims them as its own. In 2006 the city put up a monument on its main square: a stone bowl holding twelve concrete dumplings and an oversized ladle, set on a pedestal shaped like a table draped with a towel, as a symbol of family prosperity. Since 2019 the square has also hosted a halushky festival. The name most likely comes from a word meaning a pebble or a glob, and older versions were made from buckwheat flour mixed with wheat.

Soft dough, short cooking

Baking soda needs an acid to release gas, and kefir supplies it, so the dough needs no vinegar. Soda starts reacting the moment it meets the kefir, which is why the dough is shaped and cooked without a long wait. Halushky made with water alone come out noticeably denser.

Most tough halushky come from two mistakes. The first is adding flour until the dough stops sticking, because a dough that is a little tacky stays soft after cooking. The second is boiling too long, since the dumplings firm up the longer they stay in the water. Keep the pieces small, as they swell in the pot, and toss them with butter straight away so they do not stick together.

Sour cream, onions or cherries

Ukrainians serve halushky with sour cream, fried onions, stewed meat or crisp pork cracklings, and mushrooms cooked in sour cream make a good savoury partner. They are also good tossed with garlic butter, a sauté of chicken, onion and carrot, or grated cheese and herbs. Filled halushky are common too, most often with liver and onion or minced meat. For a sweet version, add sugar to the dough and serve the dumplings with berries, jam or sour cherries.

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