Kefir-marinated pulled pork

Pulled pork is usually smoked over wood, but this Japanese home version needs only a lidded pot and a quiet afternoon. Pork shoulder soaks overnight in milk kefir and salt, then braises slowly on a bed of onion, carrot and garlic until it falls into soft, juicy strands. Two sauces finish it: a savoury gravy of soy sauce and sake, and a cold, lemony cucumber-kefir sauce.

Prep time20 min
Total time11 h 40 min
Makes4 servings
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Kefir-marinated pulled pork

From Southern smoke to a Japanese stockpot

Pulled pork is a barbecue dish of the American South: pork shoulder smoked over wood, shredded and eaten in a sandwich or on its own. There are slow-cooker, oven and pressure-cooker versions too. Japanese home cooks adapted it for an ordinary stovetop pot and serve it at parties. Instead of the vinegar or barbecue sauce of the American South, it leans on soy sauce, sake and a cool cucumber-kefir sauce.

Why shoulder needs hours, and what kefir adds

Choose a well-marbled cut such as pork collar (shoulder butt), because lean meat cooks badly and stays tight. Shoulder is full of collagen, which slowly turns to gelatin with heat and time. The change is complete at about 85 to 91°C inside the meat, well past ordinary doneness. If you stop too early, the pork stays tough and will not pull apart.

The kefir marinade helps keep the pork moist. Kefir's lactic acid is gentler on meat than lemon juice or vinegar, so an overnight soak keeps the pork moist without turning it mushy. Once shredded, return the pork to its cooking juices so it stays juicy.

Two sauces and plenty of ways to serve

Dust the pork with a little chili powder and serve both sauces on the side, so everyone can choose rich gravy or cool, tangy cucumber. Pile it into a soft roll with coleslaw, or tuck it into pita with tomato and lettuce. It is just as good spooned over a bowl of rice with both sauces, and leftovers can go into tacos, onto toast or into fried rice. You can also cook it a day ahead and keep it in its juices.

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