Kefir-whey buckwheat crêpes

In the hills of Cantal, in France's Auvergne, buckwheat pancakes mixed with whey once took the place of bread on the farmhouse table. These thin, egg-free crêpes follow that idea, with a nutty, earthy flavour and soft, lacy edges. The whey drained from milk kefir gives them a mild tang.

Prep time10 min
Total time1 day 40 min
Makes4 servings
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Kefir-whey buckwheat crêpes

Auvergne's bread from a bucket by the fire

The local version is called a bourriol, and it belongs to the Monts du Cantal and the south of Auvergne. In the past, no yeast or starter was added: the batter sat in a wooden bucket near the fireplace and fermented on its own, thanks to the bacteria in the whey. Families still make them for Candlemas, and for the All Saints holidays by the fire with chestnuts. They were eaten hot with butter, cold with jam for dessert, or as bread beside a hare stew.

Why buckwheat needs a little wheat

Buckwheat flour has no gluten, so crêpes made from it alone turn brittle and crack when folded. An equal share of wheat flour makes them pliable while keeping buckwheat's nutty taste. Kefir whey is the clear, thin liquid left when kefir separates into curds and whey and is drained through a cloth, quite different from thick kefir itself. Its acidity is similar to buttermilk's, and it gives the batter a gentle sourness. Wait until the edges of each crêpe look dry and lift from the pan before you move it, because a buckwheat crêpe turned too early tears.

Ham and cheese for supper, honey for dessert

For a meal, fill them with mountain ham and Cantal cheese, or with potatoes and Saint-Nectaire, and serve a green salad alongside. Some cooks fry savoury ones on one side only and lay an egg, cheese or ham straight on top while they cook. Spread them with blue cheese and chopped walnuts, roll them up and cut them into thick slices to serve with drinks. For dessert, keep it simple with butter, jam or honey.

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