By Nik, founder of 東歐嚴選｜kefir.link and former chef · Updated 2 November 2026
The Ossetians come from the heart of the Greater Caucasus, and their round, closed pies are among the best-known dishes of the region: a thin, soft crust wrapped around a generous filling, here of dill, spring onions and salty cheese. Kneading the dough with kefir makes it more elastic and gives it a pleasant tang. Brushed with butter the moment they leave the oven, the pies are cut into wedges and eaten warm.
Why a feast needs three pies
At weddings, family feasts and the festival of St George, Ossetians set three pies on the table and say a prayer before the meal, while two pies belong on a memorial table. People explain the three in different ways: as God, the sun and the world, as the underground, earthly and heavenly worlds, or as the Holy Trinity. One story even traces the custom back to the ancient Scythians and Sarmatians. On ordinary days the pies are eaten like bread, with salad, soup or meat, and no prayer is needed. Besides cheese and herbs, families fill them with beet leaves and cheese, with potato and cheese, or with finely chopped, well-peppered beef served at the end of the meal.
Soft dough, thick filling, gentle hands
The main mistake is too much flour, so stop adding it once the dough is soft and smooth and still clings a little to your hands. The filling should be as thick as porridge, because a runny filling can tear the thin dough and leak. Ossetian cooks shape these pies by hand rather than with a rolling pin, and they say the skill comes with practice. Pinch the dough firmly over the filling into a knot, and only then flatten it, pressing evenly so the seam does not stay thick and puffy. Butter brushed on straight from the oven keeps the crust soft, while overbaking a thin pie makes it hard.
Ossetian cheese and herb kefir-dough pie
Ingredients
Kefir dough
- 320 g all-purpose flour
- 250 ml plain milk kefir Unsweetened; bring to room temperature before using.
- 7 g instant dry yeast
- ½ tsp salt
- 50 g butter Soften before adding to the dough.
Cheese and herb filling
- 150 g mozzarella Drain and coarsely grate; use with feta in place of Ossetian cheese.
- 150 g feta Drain before weighing, then crumble.
- 50 g fresh dill Remove tough stems before weighing.
- 100 g spring onions
- 50 g sour cream Keep refrigerated until needed for the filling.
For shaping and brushing
- 20 g all-purpose flour For dusting hands and the work surface; use only as needed.
- 50 g butter Soften; use half on each baked pie.
You will need
- Mixing bowls
- Kitchen scale and measuring spoons
- Measuring jug
- Knife and chopping board
- Coarse grater
- Baking tray that fits a 25 cm pie
- Baking paper
- Oven
- Pastry brush
- Food thermometer
Instructions
Make the dough and filling
- Mix the 320 g flour, yeast and salt in a bowl. Add the kefir and 50 g softened butter, then knead into a smooth, soft dough that feels slightly sticky.
- Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place for 90–120 minutes, until the dough has doubled in size.
- Wash the dill and spring onions, dry thoroughly and chop finely. Mix with the drained, grated mozzarella, crumbled feta and sour cream. Taste the filling; the feta should make it salty enough without extra salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to fill the pies.
Shape and bake
- Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
- Divide the risen dough and filling into two equal portions each. Cover and refrigerate the second portions while you shape the first pie.
- Lightly dust your hands and work surface with the 20 g flour for dusting. Press one portion of dough into a circle about 30 cm across and mound half the filling in the centre, leaving the edges clean.
- Gather the edges of the dough over the filling and pinch them together firmly in the centre to seal.
- Set the filled dough seam-side down on a tray lined with baking paper. Gently flatten to about 25 cm across and about 1.5 cm thick, making sure no part exceeds 2 cm thick and the seam is pressed as thin as the rest. Make a small hole in the centre of the top crust to let steam escape.
- Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the top and underside are golden and there is no wet, raw dough around the steam hole. Shape the second pie while the first bakes, then bake it in the same way; the two pies need 40–50 minutes of oven time in total.
- Spread each pie with half of the remaining 50 g softened butter as soon as it comes out of the oven. Cut into wedges and serve warm.
Comments
No comments yet.
Comments could not be loaded.
Join the discussion
or