By Nik, founder of 東歐嚴選｜kefir.link and former chef · Updated 2 November 2026
Pirozhki are Russian filled buns, and these wrap mashed potato, fried mushrooms and green onion in a thin, tender dough that is fried until golden. There is no yeast and no long wait. Baking soda reacts with the acid in kefir as soon as they meet, releasing carbon dioxide that lifts the dough, and kefir's tang suits the earthy filling.
Little pies for lunch, soup and the street
The name is the diminutive of pirog, the Russian word for pie, so pirozhki are simply little pies. They are filled buns that are baked or fried, which sets them apart from Polish pierogi, which are simmered in water. The filling is fully enclosed, and the usual shape is a small boat. In Russia they are street food eaten out of hand, part of the appetiser course, and at their best at lunch beside a bowl of soup. Kefir dough raised with soda instead of yeast is an established home version, and it is usually fried rather than baked, which gives a lighter, airier bun.
What kefir and soda do to the dough
Baking soda needs an acid to work, and kefir supplies it. The lactic acid in kefir also partly softens the gluten in the flour, so the crumb stays tender and moist. Kefir straight from the fridge reacts slowly, which is why it should lose its chill before mixing. Measure the soda level, because too much leaves a soapy taste and smell, a dark yellow-brown colour and a crumbly texture. After frying, Russian home cooks move the buns into a covered pot for a few minutes, which makes them more tender.
Fillings to try and how to serve them
Potato and mushroom is one of many savoury fillings for pirozhki. Kefir dough also takes stewed cabbage, rice with green onion, mashed beans, or egg and leek, and other fresh or frozen mushrooms can replace button mushrooms. Cheese and dill are a good addition to the potato and mushroom mix, and leftover rice can even stand in for the potato. Sweet versions are filled with apples, rhubarb or jam. Serve the buns warm with a bowl of thick sour cream.
Potato and mushroom kefir-dough buns
Ingredients
Kefir dough
- 400 g all-purpose flour
- 250 ml plain milk kefir Unsweetened.
- 1 egg
- 40 g unsalted butter Cold, cut into small cubes.
- 2 tbsp vegetable oil
- 2 tbsp sugar
- ½ tsp baking soda Food-grade; level it off. More gives a soapy taste.
- 1 tsp salt Measure a level teaspoon.
Potato and mushroom filling
- 700 g potatoes Peel and cut into large chunks.
- 1 bay leaf
- 400 g button mushrooms Clean and dice.
- 40 ml vegetable oil For frying the mushrooms.
- 30 g green onion Wash and finely slice.
- salt To taste.
- ground black pepper To taste.
- plain water Enough to cover the potatoes.
For frying
- vegetable oil Use a little for your hands and work surface. Generously coat the pan with the rest, adding more between batches as needed.
You will need
- Mixing bowls
- Saucepan with a lid
- Large frying pan with a lid
- Potato masher or fork
- Whisk and sieve
- Kitchen scale and measuring spoons
- Measuring jug
- Knife and chopping board
- Paper towels
- Food thermometer
Instructions
Prepare the filling
- Put the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with hot water and bring to a boil. Add the bay leaf and salt to taste. Cook for about 25 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
- Drain the potatoes and remove the bay leaf, then mash with a potato masher or fork.
- Heat the 40 ml oil in a frying pan. Add the mushrooms and fry over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring, until the released moisture has evaporated.
- Mix the mushrooms and green onion into the mashed potato. Season with salt and pepper, then leave to cool.
Make the dough
- Sift the flour and baking soda into a bowl. Add the cold butter and work it into the flour with a fork until the mixture looks crumbly.
- In another bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, salt for the dough, kefir and 2 tbsp oil.
- Pour the kefir mixture into the flour mixture and knead just until evenly combined; the dough should be soft and slightly sticky. Cover with a clean cloth and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Fill and pan-fry
- Lightly oil your hands and work surface with some of the frying oil. Divide the dough into 25 pieces and flatten each into a round about 0.5–0.7 cm thick. Divide the cooled filling evenly among the rounds, pinch the edges firmly closed and shape into oval buns. Press each bun gently to flatten it slightly.
- Heat a generous layer of oil in the pan. Fry the buns in batches over low to medium heat, seam-side down. When the underside is golden, turn the buns over and cover the pan. Fry for about 10 minutes per batch in total, until both sides are golden and the dough is cooked through.
- Drain the buns on paper towels. Transfer to a clean saucepan, cover and leave for about 10 minutes to soften the crust. Serve warm.
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