Norwegian kefir griddle cakes (Sveler)

A svele is a small, thick, sweet Norwegian pancake, eaten warm with butter melting into it and sugar folded inside. It belongs above all to western Norway, where it has become the snack people expect on the region's ferries. Milk kefir is a standard ingredient in Norwegian versions, and its acidity is what lets the baking soda lift the thick batter.

Prep time10 min
Total time1 h
Makes10 pieces
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Norwegian kefir griddle cakes (Sveler)

The pancake that went to sea

Sveler come from the villages of Sunnmøre in north-western Norway, where they were an easy, filling food for feeding many people at once, ideally with coffee. Their life at sea began in 1971, when a ferry company employee brought a batch of batter to work and cooked sveler for the crew and passengers. They were an instant success and soon spread to the company's other routes, and today many Norwegians feel a ferry trip is not complete without one.

Why kefir and baking soda work as a pair

Baking soda is a base, and it needs an acid before it releases the carbon dioxide that makes a batter rise. Svele batter traditionally holds soured milk, and kefir supplies exactly that acid. With too little acid, soda can leave an odd taste and turn the cakes a yellow-green colour.

Many Norwegian recipes also add hartshorn salt, an old raising agent first made by heating deer antler. It suits thin, dry biscuits better than thick, moist cakes, where uneven baking can leave a taste of ammonia. Several well-known svele recipes use baking soda alone. Once the flour goes in, mix only until it disappears, because overmixing develops gluten and knocks out the air bubbles, leaving the cakes tough and flat.

Butter and sugar, or brown cheese

The classic filling is butter and sugar, often beaten together into a buttercream and spread over the warm svele before it is folded in half. Jam, sour cream and Norwegian brown cheese are popular alternatives. Fold each svele while it is freshly cooked, even if you plan to fill it later, because one folded for the first time after cooling tends to crack. Sveler taste best before they go cold, so bring them to the table warm with coffee.

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