Balkan kefir fritters

Uštipci are small Balkan fritters, spooned straight into hot oil, that come out golden and lightly crisp with a soft, airy centre. They are a breakfast staple across the region, eaten warm with cheese and cured ham or with honey and jam. Milk kefir gives the batter a gentle sourness, and there is no dough to knead.

Prep time5 min
Total time20 min
Makes4 servings
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Balkan kefir fritters

Pinched dough for farm breakfasts and wedding feasts

The name comes from a verb meaning to pinch, probably from the way bits of dough are pinched or scooped into the pan; where the dish began, no one knows. In Herzegovina, families have long made uštipci for breakfast or supper and as food for heavy farm work. They also belonged at weddings, christenings and holiday tables, where the smell of fresh fritters announced that the celebration had begun. The traditional Herzegovinian dough uses no raising agent, while cooks elsewhere add yeast, or yogurt and baking powder, and kefir can replace the yogurt in the same amount.

Thick batter, small spoonfuls, room to roll

The batter should be thicker than pancake batter, thick enough to sit on a spoon, because a runny one is hard to shape and burns at the edges. Keep the pieces about the size of a teaspoon, since large ones brown outside while the middle stays raw, and lower the heat a little once frying begins so the crust does not race ahead. Given space, the fritters often flip themselves once the underside is done, while a crowded pan makes them stick together. The rise comes from baking powder. Do not swap in baking soda spoon for spoon: it is about four times stronger and leaves a soapy taste when overused.

Savoury with feta, sweet with jam

Hot uštipci with feta and cherry tomatoes is a favourite savoury plate, and cured ham, sausages and other cheeses suit them too. A cool yogurt sauce, a simple tomato sauce or sliced salted tomato makes a good dip. For a sweet version, serve them with cream cheese and jam, or dust them with powdered sugar.

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