Georgian kefir cheese bread (Khachapuri)

Khachapuri is Georgia’s cheese bread, and no family celebration there goes without it, yet it is just as likely to appear as a breakfast made on the spur of the moment. This round version is sealed around mozzarella and feta and cooked in a covered skillet, with no yeast and no oven. Kefir and sour cream give the dough a mild tang and, together with a little baking soda, its lift.

Prep time30 min
Total time1 h 50 min
Makes4 pieces
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Georgian kefir cheese bread (Khachapuri)

Round and sealed, or an open boat with egg

Shape, filling and even the name of khachapuri change from one Georgian region to the next. The most popular form is the round, closed bread of Imereti, prized for thin, tender dough, moderate browning and mildly salted cheese, and some villages there still bake it on a clay pan over embers. The open boat filled with cheese, butter and an egg yolk comes from Adjara on the Black Sea; at the table, the hot yolk is stirred into the cheese and pieces of the rim are torn off to dip. This skillet bread follows the round, closed shape.

A quick dough built on tang

Georgian cooks have their own shortcut: a dough kneaded with matsoni, the country’s fermented milk, and baking soda needs no rising time and stays soft even when cold. Kefir and sour cream take the place of matsoni here. Their acid reacts with the baking soda as soon as they meet, releasing carbon dioxide that lifts the dough. Keep the dough very soft and slightly sticky, because too much flour makes the bread rubbery once it cools. Low heat under a lid lets the centre cook through before the outside browns.

Cheeses and herbs for the filling

In Georgia the filling is usually Imeretian cheese, often with a little sulguni. Skillet versions made outside Georgia use fresh curd cheese, feta or mozzarella instead. Mozzarella is a favourite stand-in for sulguni because it stretches well and is less salty. For a fresher taste, mix chopped dill, parsley or green onion into the filling. Cut the warm bread into wedges and serve it with tea or coffee, or with fresh vegetables and herbs.

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