Egg-free kefir-cheese tiramisu

Tiramisu is Italy's layered dessert of coffee-soaked biscuits, a creamy filling and a dusting of cocoa, and its name is usually translated as “pick me up”. Here strained kefir cheese takes the place of mascarpone, egg yolks and whipped cream, so the filling is thick, tangy kefir sweetened with honey, with a little vanilla in the coffee. A few hours in the fridge let the coffee-soaked biscuits soften into the cream.

Prep time10 min
Total time5 h 10 min
Makes3 servings
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Egg-free kefir-cheese tiramisu

Two places claim the first tiramisu

A restaurant in Treviso says its tiramisu went on the dessert menu in 1972, made with coffee-moistened savoiardi, egg yolks, sugar, mascarpone and cocoa. Friuli tells a different story, crediting a cook at a hotel restaurant in Tolmezzo with an earlier recipe, and in 2017 Italy's agriculture ministry listed tiramisu as a traditional product of Friuli Venezia Giulia. What is clear is that the dessert does not appear in cookbooks before the 1960s. It now even has its own day, 21 March.

Kefir cheese in place of mascarpone

Strained kefir thickens the way other cultured dairy does: lactic acid sets the milk proteins into a soft network, and draining away the whey leaves a thick, spreadable cheese. That body comes from losing water rather than from fat, so the filling tastes tart before it tastes rich. Honey softens that tartness. For a richer filling, fold in a little whipped cream, or add grated lemon or lime zest to lean into the tang.

Keep the biscuits from going soggy

Kefir cheese is wetter than mascarpone, so the biscuits need an even shorter dip, a second or two at most. Long soaking turns biscuits mushy and leaves liquid at the bottom of the glass, and warm coffee softens them too fast, so cool it to room temperature or colder first. Black coffee makes a less bitter dip than espresso. Sift the cocoa over only at the last moment, or the cream absorbs it.

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