Lemon kefir muffins

These muffins rise tall and golden, with lemon in every bite and soft ribbons of cream cheese running through the crumb. Zest and juice flavour both the cake and the creamy swirl, so the lemon tastes bright rather than sweet. Plain milk kefir keeps the crumb moist and adds a gentle tang.

Prep time20 min
Total time35 min
Makes12 pieces
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Lemon kefir muffins

An old American habit with sour milk

The American muffin is a quick bread, raised with baking soda or baking powder instead of yeast, so it goes from bowl to oven without waiting for dough to rise. It took shape in North America in the nineteenth century, when home cooks raised their muffins with sour milk or buttermilk and soda, and kefir carries on that idea.

Two leaveners and a hot start

Kefir and lemon juice are both acidic, and baking soda needs an acid to make the carbon dioxide that lifts the batter. In a batter with both leaveners, baking powder does most of the lifting, while the soda neutralises the acid and adds a little lift of its own. The soda starts working as soon as it is wet, so the batter should go into the oven straight away. The first five minutes at high heat create a quick burst of steam that pushes the muffins up into domes, and the lower temperature then cooks the centres without over-browning the tops. Fold only until no dry flour remains, because overmixing builds gluten and makes muffins tough and dense.

With coffee, tea or a lemon glaze

Lemon muffins suit breakfast or an afternoon snack with coffee or tea, and they travel well on a picnic. For extra shine and sharpness, drizzle the cooled muffins with a simple icing of lemon juice and icing sugar. Before baking, you can also scatter poppy seeds, black and white sesame seeds or chopped nuts over the tops.

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